3. Study Visit

Accompanying person: Lusine Poghosyan

A journey to the roots believed to be lost

By Ivan von Meister

As a son of a German father and an Armenian mother, a wish has grown in me over the years: the wish to visit the country of my ancestors. Promptly, I decided to travel with Cevi Zurich. Since I knew this organization to have a humanitarian attitude, I was hoping to experience more than just the standard touristic program. Above all, I wanted to meet people, real Armenian people who would help me to find out about the other half of my own being, which had been neglected up to now.

The travelling companions: Our guide and expert of Armenia, Adrian, head of the Armenia Project of Cevi Zurich, his young wife Andrea being a competent assistance to the guide, Ursula and Martin, a couple fond of travelling from the eastern part of Switzerland, the two Cevi co-workers Lukas and Thomas, the two Swiss Armenians Vartan and Maksut were forming a small, variegated, merry group of travellers. I felt very pleasant in their company, and safer than if I had been all by myself. Everybody was very open and helpful.

Some extracts from the travelling diary: We are alternately escorted by two young women of  YMCA Spitak, Elia and Lusine. To my curious question, what would be the spirit of the Armenians, Elia answers: „You must find out yourself.“

In Jerewan, I am confronted with two contrasting facts: a gigantic architectural project „Northern Prospect“ for the reconstruction of the city on one side, and an unemployment rate of 50% and loitering young people on the other side. I am deeply moved by the visit of the Museum of Genocide Tsitsernakaberd in Jerevan. The stirring paintings of the atrocious massacre by the French Painter Jansem are driving tears into my eyes.

In the city of Gjumri, which was severely damaged by the earthquake of 1988, we are invited by Tigran, the head of „Triangle“, the YMCA of that place, to his home and family. There we are served an opulent Armenian dinner instead of the pizza we have brought with us. In the school which has been established by YMCA, some Armenian girls are performing beautiful dances, being strictly observed by their teacher.

On the way to Spitak, we stop in the monastery of psalms Saghmosavankh near the breathtaking Khasach gorge. In Spitak, the injuries of the 1988 earthquake still are clearly visible. In a brittle den, Hajk, the head of YMCA Spitak invites us to a lunch which is carefully prepared by womens‘ hands. We are surrounded by laughing childrens‘ faces – a contrast to the gloomy mood in this city, due to rainy weather and an unemployment

rate of 90%. Passing Vanadzor, we drive on to Dilidjian, where we enjoy a pleasant evening at a fireplace.

At the Lake of Sevan, we visit the cemetery of Noratus, where hundreds of Chatschkhars are defying the strong wind. Suddenly, we are surrounded by a gang of Armenian youths, bidding us 1000$ for our Armenian guide Lusine! Bravely resisting, we buy socks made of sheep wool, offered by some old women sitting on the grave stones.

Along the old Silk Route, Suren drives us safely through all the turns to the Selim Pass at 2410m. Visit of the „caravanserai“, a kind of motel for camels. Over our heads, a lonely eagle is sailing in the strong wind of the mountain. After having provided food in Jeghegnadzor, we are picknicking at the former University of Gladzor. Allegedly, the former inhabitants were eaters of soup – perhaps even vegetarians? Climbing on a hill in the cold, biting wind, I enjoy a magnificent view, while down there, in my absence, they are slaughtering a chicken.

In the monastery Noravank, built of red tuffstone (volcanic rock) and perfectly fitting into the landscape, we hear at night a Duduk concert, after having eaten dinner in a grotto together with a former boss of the KGB.

The river Vorotan has digged itself into the rocks of the most southern and untamed province of Armenia, Sjunikh. There we visit, after a drive on difficult roads, the monastery of Tatev which is situated on a rock between wild gorges and high peaks, like a fortress. Many times it had been destroyed and rebuilt. On the way back, we stop at Zorokhar, the Armenian „Stonehenge“, where an icy, biting blast is lashing through the many stone pillars on the wide high plain covered with grass. Drive back to Jerevan over the 2344m high Vorotan Pass, where we even are able to have a snowball fight.

The charm of Armenia: In search of my Armenian roots, I am discovering the character traits of Armenian men: patriarchal, strong will, keen mind. And the typical Armenian man hardly shows any soft feelings. Nevertheless, they are having a strong emotional side, expressed by the love of music, arts and good eating.

Armenia: Is it the wild gorges, the snow-covered peaks and rocks, the old churches of tuff stone and the numerous cross-stones, or the proud people with their legendary hospitality which are making up its charm?

Be it as it is – thanks to this interesting journey, the Armenian in me has irrevocably woken up to life!